Olvera

After some dodgy weather, well it hasn’t been bad but could be better, we arrived in the west of Andalucia to visit the ‘White Towns’ so named because of their highly visible positions and their whiteness.

One of these towns is Olvera and boasts a large campsite a couple of miles from the town. This is a good walking distance, although closer would be better. The Pueblo Blanco campsite is emerging from winter hibernation and clearly lots need doing before the season starts. The woman in reception needs to find a smile - that would be a nice start 😄.

It’s a big site but there are just a few people here, I’d say three vehicles of each of the European countries. Belgiuns, Dutch, Swiss, French, Germans - you get the idea.

We have all picked good vantage points and from ours we can see Olvera in the distance with its church and castle up on the rocky outcrop. Further left (south) are mountains rising to 1,654m

The unstable air and dampness of previous days is lifting and the mists are clearing from these mountains. We are entering a run of dry and sunny weather.

In Olvera it’s a steep walk to the top (after our 2 mile walk into town) and we marvel at the view. These early settlers certainly knew where to build their castles. Just below we have a morning coffee in the town hall square - Plaza del Ayunatamiento - although by now we are on Spanish time and it is about 12 noon.

We wander slowly down chatting to each other and are surprised by a “hello” from behind. An English lady lives here and teaches Spanish and English, whilst her husband is already retired. She says how the locals are happy that foreign incomers are buying the oldest properties and renovating these damp, cold and difficult to access houses.

Meanwhile the locals move downhill into newer places with garages and heating which are closer to the amenities. It’s a win-win.

She suggests a place for lunch, as we fancy another menu del dia and we meander very slowly so as not to arrive early. We walk past a place that is already buzzing, advertising at €8.50, “there must be a catch” surely.

The recommended place isn’t open and doesn’t look like it will be any time soon. So we turn around and head back to “surely” and “to give it a try”.

The waitress is patient as she reels off the choices  across three courses plus a drink and we choose, order a beer and then enjoy the next 90mins watching the Spanish and trying to listen to their chat.

When it’s all over and we have finished with an obligatory Postres of Apple Cake and Crème Caramel I go to pay and it is indeed €8.50 each.

I know that retirees like to talk about value for money meals and I find I’m doing the same but some things need recording for future generations.