Skip to main content

Sierra Nevada transit



You don’t build a wall like this. I don’t care how much easier it might be, you don’t do it. In Spain though this seems to be the usual approach. You see walls like this everywhere but gravity takes over so quickly.

The wall in the first photo is being built now. The second one is an older wall and is what will happen to the first, quite quickly.

I had wanted to photograph some ‘bricklayers’ building a wall in a town a few days ago but the Head of Public Relations said I’d better not. A course of bricks was being laid using a line but the line wasn’t in the right place, or was it the bricks? 🤷🏻‍♂️


 


We spent a few hours at the coast, which in the early season is very quiet. This is La Herradura, a place where we once spent a nice family week at a villa. The sea was warm so a swim was easy, as was the parking. Everyone is gearing up for the holiday season which clearly hasn’t yet started.




As the temperature continues to rise we drove east towards the Sierra Nevada and to Orgiva. The only reason was to buy Higos Secos from the Alpujarras valley. We have been here twice before, staying once with Ashley at his hillside ‘farm’. This time he gave no indication of wanting visitors, in spite of happily chatting on WhatsApp over the years since we last came.

So we went to Orgiva but arrived during the afternoon temperature of what’s becoming a heatwave and it looked particularly run-down. Always known for its ‘relaxed’ lifestyle amongst the Northern European incomers, the few bedraggled people we saw just made it look worse. What’s more there were no dried figs!




On we drove, along the southern side of the Alpujarras valley which looked dry and bleak in a desert sort of way. There was some water in a stream and we happily drove down and paddled for a while, before moving on to Laroles and Camping Alpujarras.

Tino (or is it Timo) was very welcoming and gave me a tour of his all- year campsite. He’s been here for seven years, moving from Madrid but in my honest opinion it was probably at its peak condition when he arrived. The place is tired and untidy in a not-very-well-cared-for way.

He has a lot to do to get ready for Summer. As at all campsites we have visited, the pool is still empty in late May and it will be some time before it’s in use. 

Laroles at 1,000m and is within striking distance of the winter ski area at the top of the pass to the north (2,000m) but even here it is stiflingly hot in this late Spring heatwave.

We walked down into the sleepy village where the only action was outside one bar and also a particularly vicious Jack Russell who nearly got kicked over a wall as it wouldn’t stop running around our ankles.

In the morning we followed Timo’s suggestion and turned off the tarmac on the way up to the top (between km16 & 17) and drove a gravel track for miles around the mountain at around 1,700m. The views opened up somewhat but the heat haze was limiting. The gravel turned to sand and powder and for the first time we experienced a full-on dust cloud behind us.

I spotted a timber truck across a valley, realising he was heading for us and we luckily met him at a spot where I could pull over. It was just as well as he didn’t stop at all. It was like being in a sandstorm and we were enveloped in gravel dust.

After some time was found a view of the snow but it’s still 1,500m above us and we decided to head to tarmac.


Later that day we got a shock when the back door was opened. Most of the road had found its way in between door and seal and so everything was coated in grey dust. Everything ☹️

We drove up and over and then down the otherside. There are snow gates and snow marker poles at the road edge. Clearly they have plenty of snow. The road was narrow and not at all busy but the most surprising aspect was the drop-off on this northern side.



Later we had a prowl at a scrapyard cum seized vehicle compound. I saw one Defender from the road and then found three more, including a British registered ex-military 90 on SORN.






It is so easy to simply drive past this sort of sight and think nothing of it.




We are now moving into the most spectacular landscape, which we remember from the trip four years ago. It is the most ridiculous badlands you have ever seen  and we headed for a well publicised swimming spot on a huge reservoir.


It’s a little sad because at the car park and concrete slipway is a restaurant which is closed, a campsite which is closed and a load of notices saying please use the rubbish bins, which are all full and overflowing.

The swim was great, in warm-ish water with 38 degree air above it! We watched two proper swimmers in wetsuits and swimming caps, towing their orange markers (flotation aid?) and wondered what it would be like to ‘have a go’ properly.



Then we went in search of a wild camp. An English guy thought he was in disguise driving an old Spanish plate Mitsubishi, as he tipped something into a rubbish bin on an gravel track. He must have forgotten that he put-on a Union Jack T-shirt that morning. We soon got him talking about Meanwood and the Carr Manors in Leeds!

He suggested another track, ‘just keep driving to the end’ but after a mile or so we stopped and looked down a very steep, deeply rutted soft surface slope.



In true overlander style I walked a few hundred metres and decided that I didn’t want any dramas so we reversed to a suitable spot and turned around.

At the end of the original track we camped at the best place ever.
















Comments

Mark M. said…
The adventure continues!!
Do I detect a few hints of grumpiness???
Anyway the photos and commentary paint a great picture.
Tim said…
Oops sorry, I have no reason to be grumpy. I can only blame my age for auto-triggering grumpy narrative.

Popular posts from this blog

On y va

Hooray. We are off. The ferry was booked a few weeks ago and the pressure was then on to get all sorts of jobs finished on the house and Landy. Major cosmetic work was to cover the grey front doors with paint that matches the rest of the vehicle. On the engine a coolant leak had developed behind the water pump and so the P gasket and adjacent core plug were renewed. Also a cheapy head unit from those Chinese people replaced the old Sony fm radio. Now we have opened up the wonders of Car Play and all that comes with it. Finally the 9th gen iPad with WiFi became a 9th gen iPad with WiFi and ‘cellular’. This means we can use OsmAnd Maps which need no data and get their gps position off the ‘cellular’ chip in the iPad. More on this useful map in subsequent posts. We headed towards Portsmouth for a mid morning ferry via our old neighbours in S-I-V. There we had a great few hours updating each about our families and then proceeded to save the NHS, the country and the world too. I mean why no...

Escaping the weather

We stayed in Potes for four nights and during that time the weather was very hot, with the last two days maxima in the mid 30s. Bizarrely, last Friday night was one of the hottest, as at bedtime it was 27C and even in the middle of the night it was 25C. The forecast though, was ominous for the Picos (and worse for the UK) and so we made the best of the day by zooming up the valley to Fuente De. Here with perfect planning, we had booked the cable car for 10:30 and were whisked up in one cable catenary swoop, from 1,100m to 1,800m. It was sunny with wide views and we walked up a barren valley until we reached a steep scree-crossing path, where we turned around. Any further and it would have needed full kit and sleeping bags, as we were heading for a refugio . We got our fill of that high mountain and were back down in time to escape the mountains before the weather broke. The committee had decided that a city break to Leon was next and we had an overnight opportunity somewhere along ...

Potes and environs

Potes is a bustling town that’s clearly ‘in the mountains’ but isn’t quite a mountain town. Well that was what we thought until we went for a walk. More on that later. First we got to know the site ( Camping La Viorna ) and the neighbours. After the squeeze of the first night near the pool, we were upgraded to a pitch at the end of the lowest terrace which had a superb view of the eastern massive of the Picos. So although this was still a squeeze pitch, somehow we felt good about it. The ‘squeeze’ happened later in the day. ☺️ Happily our immediate neighbours were quiet Dutchland people who like to eat their tea early and retire in good time. They always enjoy taking to us Brits, rather than those Germans and soon I was engaged because I was asked a question. “Why do you have a UK flag on your number plate, rather than a Welsh Scottish or English flag?”. Tricky! I explained that England isn’t a country like Wales or Scotland. They have their own  parliaments and make rules for them...