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A new take on ‘small-far away’

At the top of a very strenuous walk of 670m vertical ascent, we were ready for the flask. There’s a cross here that’s visible from the campsite. It had been quite a stretch with multiple, very airy viewpoints. Just above it we spotted a bench and decided that it would be a perfect spot for the break. Things weren’t quite straightforward. We were  reminded of a classic sketch from Father Ted. Link in the photo
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Oh well nvm

  A lot of people from Deutschland are here in the Italian lakes. In fact there’s a lot in Austria too. It’s clearly their sun-belt and not far to come really, unless they live in the far north. At camping Riva San Pietro we were very fortunate to be moved to a semi-detached spot, eventually next to the huge motorhome. Although it’s a small site and nicely thought out, for the most part the pitches form rows of terraces with a nice wide grassy road in between. The result is that the vehicles are tightly packed nose to tail. Obviously that’s the way that Carlos wants it to be. This is the best way as everyone is ensured of a wide view down their ‘road’ to the lake. It’s a very nice view whichever way you look. The trailers house motorbikes or scooters. Everyone has an alternative wheeled transport for when they arrive. Almost every bike is electric; an indication I suppose of the age of the riders. A lot of German is spoken with very few Brits, one or two CH, A, N and PL plates. For...

‘Ferrari’ boats

A four night stay is a long one for us and we get well established at  Camping Riva San Pietro  at Maronne. We made friends with Carlos and exchanged Buongiorno  as often as we could. Carlos keeps every one in their place, with a special focus on the precise positioning of their camper, caravan or motorhome. He’s always on the prowl, directing even the largest vehicle with millimetre precision (our new neighbours). The neighbours had a typically huge MH and were also towing a trailer with a nice example of an Opel Kadette. That was for them to pootle about in, as clearly the MH can only access some places. The restaurant here is very keenly priced and well supported by the campers. We ate there on two nights and on the other we had takeaway pizzas (which covered next day’s lunch too). Something rather special happened on Saturday. A beautiful wooden speedboat approached our bank of the lake, followed by many more. They all tied-up at the many buoys just where we swim and ...

Lago d’Iseo

The cows come back at exactly the right time. It’s actually 7am when the farmer returns in his old banger and the cows have perfectly timed their slow walk and are ready there at the bottom / right next to us. That’s what cows do. The night has been so quiet with no cars, no motorbikes and no sound save for one moment when the dog in the barn was spooked by something but that didn’t last long. Clouds came in so we had the advantage of some overnight warmth but the disadvantage of no early morning view. We really enjoyed it and didn’t want to leave  I don’t suppose we would have done except we needed to do some food shopping. We could have managed another 24hours but decided not to. Still, we held out till the end of the morning. It was so nice up there. Finally we headed downhill and past the possible Park4night spot which was nothing like as attractive as our Refugio. The temperature steadily increased and by the time we got to Lidl it was in the mid twenties. Here I had to do som...

Top drawer wild camp

We came down the west/south side of the Stelvio and into Bormio. There was no time to stop as we wanted to get to our chosen Italian lake. It was still a fair drive (in our 110) and we soon started to think about maybe pulling in somewhere unofficial. Park4night has a location “up there” and maybe it’ll be suitable or maybe there’ll be others there already. We are following the route to lake Iseo using our normal OsmAnd map on the iPad but Google maps instructs us to travel two sides of a triangle, rather than follow the hypotenuse. The overnight spot requires us to follow the H and so we head up what turns out to be another pass, only this time it’s more ‘local’. It’s certainly narrow, fairly steep and has sufficient hairpins to frustrate us as we’ve done enough today. Near the top the road is much less steep and there’s a wide flat area just under the hill of the last few bends to the summit. There, along a track of 150 m,  we see a building and the notice on the roadside says it...

Driving over the Stelvio pass

We’ve driven a lot of Alpine passes but never the Stelvio. Moving south to the Italian lakes gave us a great excuse to drive it on Tuesday. Stelvio has a very recognisable set of hairpins that feature in many photographs taken of those final bends, on the approach from the east. Leaving Prutz and heading south we soon hit a road closed sign. This was our way to the pass and as we hesitated in the middle of the carriageway, an Austrian guy assured us it was a ten minute detour into Switzerland. So we left the roadworks, where they were working to strengthen the tunnel / galleries along the side of the rockface and we made the detour which was certainly not ten minutes longer. Maybe Austria Man meant ten minutes driving in Switzerland and then you’ll be back into Italy. So it was up and over a small local pass. By the time we got down to the valley we were ready for a stop and came across this reservoir under which are the remains of several villages but with one landmark remaining, a be...