Skip to main content

Englandshire




Canillas de Albaida, another of the typical Andalucian pueblo blancos is at almost 600m in the hills just inland from the Mediterranean coast at Nerja, itself a few km east of Malaga. The ‘hills’ rise to 2,066m at Sierra de Tejeda, so would really be classed as mountains if it weren’t for the fact that this height is almost unnoticed in Spain.


We stayed at the village’s fantastic ‘compound’ for camper vans and motorhomes. It’s at the top of the village, is a big flat area with small pebbles and the toilet block with hot water and showers is just below at the hard play area. Fast Wifi is provided and the cost is €10 per night.



This is the huge gate at the entrance. It’s totally over engineered because it is too big!

It’s starting to get properly hot now.



When we arrived, Chris was there in his T5, waiting to finalise the purchase of a property in the middle of the village. He’s been waiting for a few weeks. The English owner told him ‘I’m nipping back to England and I should be back in early June”.

Chris has a story but it’s straightforward, as is his campervan and few bits around it like his bike.

In a corner there was an altogether different story based on an aging VW Passat estate which was was covered in ‘stuff’. There was a huge sunshade, two rigid solar panels, a roof tent, a toilet tent and loads of other stuff, plus a guy who spent the whole afternoon wandering around with the towelling version of a Djellaba. 

There were two women with him and at least four dogs. The two women were also in various stages of not wearing much but the weather was kind.

Why do you only ever hear the names of dogs that aren’t under control? Mayo was one of their four dogs, apparently picked up as strays as they travel around. They caused havoc with two dogs in two motorhomes but at night all was quiet. The dogs all slept in the boot of the car but whether the three people all climbed into the roof tent, I’ll never know.




In the morning the car, dogs and people drove off leaving most of the kit behind. Unfortunately we went for a walk and didn’t get back for sometime and when we did the whole pitch was clear.

How did they fit everything in?

We walked to the village during the second evening and at the first bar heard the sound of an English pub quiz. Avoiding this we chose another bar for beer and tapas but still everyone there was English.

I think we have found where our countrymen come to live. Certainly there are many villas in good condition and most people we met as we walked from our village to the next, on a convenient GR path said “hello” rather than “hola”.

The walk along the terraces took us through the shade of olive trees some were laden with black olives that fell as the branches were brushed. It was confusing until we realised that these are last year’s crop, for some reason left untouched. The new fruit is only just appearing as tiny little white blobs.

There are trees with thick waxy leaves which we think must be avocado although no fruit is obvious and some vines.



This is the next village, Cómpeta which is bigger and has plenty of ‘for sale’ signs in English.




Comments

Mark M. said…
Those compounds look like a sensible option if the villages otherwise have vans on pavements etc. Hope it doesn’t get too hot for you!! What a tour you’re having!!!

Popular posts from this blog

Potes and environs

Potes is a bustling town that’s clearly ‘in the mountains’ but isn’t quite a mountain town. Well that was what we thought until we went for a walk. More on that later. First we got to know the site ( Camping La Viorna ) and the neighbours. After the squeeze of the first night near the pool, we were upgraded to a pitch at the end of the lowest terrace which had a superb view of the eastern massive of the Picos. So although this was still a squeeze pitch, somehow we felt good about it. The ‘squeeze’ happened later in the day. ☺️ Happily our immediate neighbours were quiet Dutchland people who like to eat their tea early and retire in good time. They always enjoy taking to us Brits, rather than those Germans and soon I was engaged because I was asked a question. “Why do you have a UK flag on your number plate, rather than a Welsh Scottish or English flag?”. Tricky! I explained that England isn’t a country like Wales or Scotland. They have their own  parliaments and make rules for them...

First views of the Picos

 Santillana del Mar comes as a surprise to those of us that haven’t done the prep and read about this place. Fancy having planning controls going back to the 16C. when you have such amazing stone buildings. This town is a tourist town certainly but it’s thoroughly deserved. Beautiful sturdy Cotswold stone coloured buildings are everywhere. The stone quoins, lintols and supports are impressive but there’s plenty of substantial hefty cross sections of wood too. We wander the streets, looking at the wares aimed at us tourists but encounter cascades of water from the roof tiles. It’s raining and there are no gutters! The bar is welcoming and we cleverly order dos cañas de cerveza  having learnt this glass size from a bartender in Tenerife. We are rewarded with a plate of crisps too and settle on the bar stools, wondering whether to eat here. Unfortunately we discuss this for too long and the tables fill and we are left on the bar stools until we decide to wander again. Inside...

Lago del Valle

Continuing the walking theme, the next day we drove up another of the five valleys that connect with Pola de Somiedo, to get to a suitable start point. This was just below the last hamlet, Outeiro which is at the end of the tarmac. The intention was to walk from there, up to the corrie / cwm of Lago del Valle. The snag of the day was that as we set off to drive the narrow steep road up the gorge from the campsite, we immediately caught up with a full size concrete lorry, This was making its way to that last village and el driver was  not in a mood to pull over. So we had time to look at the gorge-that-becomes-a-high-valley. It’s hard to describe these landscapes. They are severe, incredibly scenic, remote and completely unspoilt. They are also so near the ferry ports of the coast that only £800 separates them from more campervan travellers from Great Britain (& Northern Island). We started the walk and soon saw the concrete which had already been dropped for the pad of a build...