Stoupa

 Thu - Sun 5th - 8th Oct

Out of the mountains we drove, through a few more twists and turns to Kalamata. On the way we did make an unscheduled stop. One of us was attracted by a couple of bright yellow vehicles, abandoned next to a derelict building. We drove over a bumpy track, only to find a solo campervan driver from Berlin there, who likewise, was interested in what they were doing.

We talked about Mercedes vehicles and engines. He had apparently already thought through the removal of an engine, to pop into his van and take back to Germany.

“Vot a vaist it is. Craisy”.

He suggested he had enough gear in his van to rig-up a hoist but had decided not to. Dawn was not sufficiently interested in the possible exercise and so we didn’t check.

Narrow village streets filter out the motorhomes and it’s only the odd campervan that you see in these parts. However, two beauties were parked at the end of a bumpy track, clearly too precious to take any further. The camperbus is from D and the old Vee Dub from NL.

Oh and there was also the farmer who decided to have a coffee at the bakery after a busy morning getting the Tup onto his pickup.

It will soon be Christmas, although it really doesn’t feel like it on our ‘no autumn’ trip.

It doesn’t get much better when you know that the approach to a favourite place is over a spectacular mountain road. I remember going up many years ago on the tour operator’s coach, straining to see the views.

This time we caught up with a lady dressed in white, driving a scooter as if it were a Ducati. She was momentarily distracted and slowed down so we passed her, only to further up reach the back of a slow queue formed behind a long articulated lorry. First the scooter weaved in out out to finally get to the front and then a car did the same. Behind me the car sat astride the middle white lines, right into the bends, even the hairpins.

There were at least three cars between us and the lorry and still the car pushed and pushed, even though no-one could overtake on the steep ascent.

Finally going for it, the car passed me and cut in so tight that I had to almost stop. This continued until it was a dual at the front between white car and white lady.  I averted my eyes as they overtook the lorry on blind bends going downhill, just before the driver pulled over to let us all past anyway!

Then we got “that view” and we drove to the beach at Kardimilli and had coffee and the cheese pie we’d bought from the baker earlier. Then we drove the extra 10 minutes to Stoupa.

Kalogria Camping is positioned between the two Stoupa beaches. It really couldn’t be more convenient. The campsite is large and informal. “Tatty” was the word I’d used to describe it to the nice Canadian lady in the jewellery shop. They have been here for fifteen years and she was a little surprised that I knew it was Canada and not the US of A.

She said that the campsite has been sold but knows no more. Maybe that’s why.

We don’t mind. After three days in the mountains, the showers are very welcome. The instructions are clear too but might still be a surprise for any first time visitors to Greece and one or two other destinations.

So we wander to the beach. Nothing has changed really except the profusion of sunbeds and parasols. Each waterfront business will expect you to spend some money in exchange for using them but one or two charge too.

Of course if you don’t want to eat or drink then you occupy a spot on the beach without a bed.

Then you are into the water. There’s no hesitation. What a fantastic time of year to go in the sea. It’s so warm, getting in requires no effort at all. Thats’s not because you have first grilled on the sun-bed, it’s because it must be 25/26 C in there.

The view back to the mountain is stupendous and has been recorded on here in 2015 but modern ‘tech’ makes it easy to show once again. The world really did all but end when that storm hit. Spot the Landy too.

So far this time at Stoupa we have had just one storm (in three days) but we do appear to be magnets for lightning!