We walk along la Clarée river following a recognised path and it skirts meadows full of wild flowers. There are two or three steep downhill sections and after yesterday’s climb we wonder how these will feel on the return.
The river thunders below and beside us and very occasionally it slows down and becomes placid. It’s a long way but after yesterday’s exertions it’s a stroll.
In Navache we take up residence outside the boulangerie which is also a patisserie and coffee shop. We buy a quiche each and sit and watch the Sunday morning world.
Much of it comprises cyclists who have made their way over from Italy but also ‘church’ is over and the congregation moves outside and walks past us en masse. We later find that they have moved onto a post-service social at the nearby restaurant and are tucking into poulet roti.
The walk back uphill isn’t as hard as we’d imagined. I think yesterday has conditioned us.
We probably didn’t need another shower but there was a kind Dutchman and wife camping next to us. I think they’d found the campsite experience just a little too 1970s and this morning after just one night they offered me two jetons. I was rather surprised “don’t you want them for your own showers?” I asked, “no it’s ok” he said “but you must be dirty” I said rather too hurriedly but I’d already got them in my hand and the deal was done.
I had been a little worried about their hygiene as they had a little roof tent and a medium sized dog that also slept up there, needing a carry up and down. So I’d already seen the dog hairs all over his fleece. Maybe they’ll be obtain jetons for a laverie somewhere.
The nice young lady who runs the campsite, does so by opening the accueil in the morning, having received the pre-ordered bread and she’s also there late afternoon for a while.
She is very happy to hear from me that I think it’s a nice place and tells me that she doesn’t want to change it. The cold taps for personal washing and washing up, seems to be a mark of the ‘nature’.
I think she’s slightly lost the idea and I don’t think that nature comes from cold water and very little housekeeping around the site or cleanliness in the sanitaires.
It’s a small price to pay; there’s something about the place that makes it nice. Everyone says hello to everyone else and there’s early activity, as water bottles are filled and boots laced-up. The mountains are right here. It really is a walkers’ campsite.
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