Skip to main content

Rivers and gorges


Down in the valley we accidentally saw a trough offering eau potable and when camping you never pass-up the opportunity for a refill.


With 20 litres or so of fresh stuff we were ready for another night ‘wild’. We watched the nearby river, foaming white and the kayakers in full force, all though they are mainly out of the water. The kayak season here coincides with snow melt but I get the feeling that the rivers are a little too forceful at the moment.





I heard some English speakers discussing “are you running that?” and the answer was “No, not for a week maybe”. I think the weather is warmer than usual and I know that there was late snow, so maybe we are seeing more water than is normal for this time of year.



The whole tour has been dominated by gorges and foaming rivers. Often there are gorge roadworks which involve traffic lights that always have a countdown timer on display. I like them.






Guillestre sits surprisingly alongside a deep valley which we didn’t see until we drove up to an adjacent hilltop where there’s another fortified settlement, Mont Dauphin. 



It’s really shocking to see a perfect hanging valley that isn’t halfway up a rugged mountain!





In Queyras Regional Natural Park we drove up to Saint-Véran and we were in yet another beautiful high hamlet. This one says it’s the highest village in France and it’s probably right as it’s at 2,040m.


It’s another ski area that you’ve never heard of. There are so many that the UK packages don’t go to and I’m sure these are lovely. Accommodation would be limited though. I think that moving around every few days between this sort of area would be a nice way to see more skiing. 


The style of house here, Fuste,  is a bit ‘log cabin’. They all have tin roofs, in fact all the towns in these alps have houses with metal roofs but here they are then clad with timber strips. I think the important detail is the number of floors and the relative positions of family living, animals and feed. Stone built lower levels are for animals and storage with wooden upper levels for living accommodation. I think the highest levels had feed - maybe grain and hay, which would also insulate.









In this region, sundials are ‘a big thing’. The trouble is that I can’t help but have a good look at them. The first check-point is the displayed time. In England I believe it’s GMT but I can’t work these French ones out. They are at least a half hour from ‘normal’ time anyway.


This particular sundial has me thinking though…






The best feature though are the views. From up here the sky is huge, the mountain faces are expansive and the sun shines early and late. For this reason we had a look for another wild camp and decided to try a point above the village, accessed by a drive up a ski run.



Comments

Popular posts from this blog

The empty map of Macedonia and into Greece

Continuing south towards the Serbia / Macedonia border, the satnav warned of a lack of detail, "do you wish to continue with this route?" However we are not intrepid explorers and Macedonia comes with a few " be careful" warnings, so we decided to stay on the motorway :-) We didn't explore Serbia; it will wait for another trip. So it was on to the border. Here, passport and V5 were required again and also proof of insurance. We didn't have any of course. When we rang the UK insurance company call centres prior to the trip, most had no idea where these countries are. They don't understand non-EU. "Macedonia - can you spell that"? The nice man at the passport office was already expecting me to say that I would buy my insurance at the "Green card office" and he handed back one passport and the V5 and put mine in his pocket until I had the necessary paper for the Landy. Unfortunately in spite of the Land Rover being classed as PL...

Remote mountains and how not to behave in them

Prior to the trip I had read somewhere that there aren’t any mountains in Portugal - at least I thought I read it. My preparations had, as usual, been focused almost totally on getting the Landy ready and Dawn, who had been doing all the other jobs was much better informed. “What? You are kidding aren’t you? Have you even looked at a map?” were some of the words she used when I told her this vital piece of information. As it became clear, there are mountains in Portugal - not massive peaks but high elevations are common and the extent of the ranges is quite large. The most remote and wild are the Serra da Peneda Gerês which rise to 1,440m but there are three others “Seras” in the Parque National da Peneda - Gerês, in which wolves roam free. First stop on they way there was the town of Guimarães, the day after “Portugal Day” and the castle and buildings were in tip-top condition. A Polish guy from Katowice who’s lived here for twenty years was selling bilberry jam in these c...

"I'm the dog"

El Berro and  Camping Sierra Espuña  are nicely positioned for walking in these 'low' Sierras and of course the obligatory GR XYZ  long distance path crosses the village. The campsite people gave us a couple of short walk suggestions, written on A4 and translated by some English guy, Michael Ball. We waited until the end of the afternoon, so that the temperature was somewhat manageable and then picked one of the ~1 hour walks that start at the campsite. The walk is so simple that there's no description, just a small diagram that's well annotated with the type of path (wide main track / footpath), other markers (gate, incorrect route, fence). You can't go wrong, can you? Well the first part was easy. Follow the path out of the village, up a valley, through woodland, up and up. Then reach the ridge and the marked ring of stones. Don't turn right, carry on straight across. Then wander through a few trees and down to a dry riverbed, at which point you walk the (ve...