Skip to main content

Erraid (11th July 2021)

 It was no surprise but nevertheless, mid summer in these parts means very little dark. The sun set at exactly 10pm when we were at Craignure on the northeast coast. I know this as I watched it dip below the north west horizon.



At Fidden you can see a jetty and just up from there, a row of cottages, each with a brightly painted door. They are a lovely sight, better for us campers than the inhabitants. They look across to a field of camper vans and motorhomes, which is a bit sad.


The cottages are on Erraid, a small island cut off at high tide and only accessible on foot across the sand. There is no marked path over that sand and also, to get to the crossing point, you have to walk two miles along the road from Fidden.


When I say walk, we are the only people to do that. The very few other people had clearly driven round. "Oh you've walked quickly" they said when we caught up with a couple who had presumably passed us on the road. " Yes", I said, "we walk quickly if we're cross and I'm cross because I didn't look to see quite how far it is along the road."




On crossing the wide strip of sand between mainland and island, we headed straight up to the top of the hill. This is Mull though and you can't walk in straight line. So skirting the wet bits we got to the top and managed to see the view in-between the now frequent squalls.



Then it was onto an unused, small observatory, a circular wooden building that is painted white and was once... an observatory. Here we discovered that the island is owned by a Dutch family, the Mac Flinderhoorts, (I made that name up) and the inhabitants, the Erraid Community, live there rent free in return for the maintenance of land and buildings.

Each of the 6-10 members live there for three years or more and has an area of focus such as gardens, kitchen, wood, boats etc. They are a spiritual group and share, meditate and eat communal meals. It's not for me but I am happy for those who live there.

 www.erraid.com

We were able to walk near to the cottages before striding out along the track above their beach. We had to stride, as the rain was being driven by a 'fresh' breeze and we were by this time in full waterproofs.





Back at the other side, we ate our picnic communally and shared our experience so far, of the wet walk and the trudge to come along the road back to Fidden.

If getting wet wasn't bad enough, I spotted a very poorly Land Rover 110 hi-cap behind a farm. It was too far gone and too far way from away home to be of further interest to me 😩




Comments

Popular posts from this blog

The empty map of Macedonia and into Greece

Continuing south towards the Serbia / Macedonia border, the satnav warned of a lack of detail, "do you wish to continue with this route?" However we are not intrepid explorers and Macedonia comes with a few " be careful" warnings, so we decided to stay on the motorway :-) We didn't explore Serbia; it will wait for another trip. So it was on to the border. Here, passport and V5 were required again and also proof of insurance. We didn't have any of course. When we rang the UK insurance company call centres prior to the trip, most had no idea where these countries are. They don't understand non-EU. "Macedonia - can you spell that"? The nice man at the passport office was already expecting me to say that I would buy my insurance at the "Green card office" and he handed back one passport and the V5 and put mine in his pocket until I had the necessary paper for the Landy. Unfortunately in spite of the Land Rover being classed as PL...

Remote mountains and how not to behave in them

Prior to the trip I had read somewhere that there aren’t any mountains in Portugal - at least I thought I read it. My preparations had, as usual, been focused almost totally on getting the Landy ready and Dawn, who had been doing all the other jobs was much better informed. “What? You are kidding aren’t you? Have you even looked at a map?” were some of the words she used when I told her this vital piece of information. As it became clear, there are mountains in Portugal - not massive peaks but high elevations are common and the extent of the ranges is quite large. The most remote and wild are the Serra da Peneda Gerês which rise to 1,440m but there are three others “Seras” in the Parque National da Peneda - Gerês, in which wolves roam free. First stop on they way there was the town of Guimarães, the day after “Portugal Day” and the castle and buildings were in tip-top condition. A Polish guy from Katowice who’s lived here for twenty years was selling bilberry jam in these c...

"I'm the dog"

El Berro and  Camping Sierra Espuña  are nicely positioned for walking in these 'low' Sierras and of course the obligatory GR XYZ  long distance path crosses the village. The campsite people gave us a couple of short walk suggestions, written on A4 and translated by some English guy, Michael Ball. We waited until the end of the afternoon, so that the temperature was somewhat manageable and then picked one of the ~1 hour walks that start at the campsite. The walk is so simple that there's no description, just a small diagram that's well annotated with the type of path (wide main track / footpath), other markers (gate, incorrect route, fence). You can't go wrong, can you? Well the first part was easy. Follow the path out of the village, up a valley, through woodland, up and up. Then reach the ridge and the marked ring of stones. Don't turn right, carry on straight across. Then wander through a few trees and down to a dry riverbed, at which point you walk the (ve...