Skip to main content

Through the centre

After the coast of the south-east it was good to drive back into the mountains to see the scenery of central Corsica. First stop was Zonza and a little river swimming just below the nice campsite, Camping la Rivière and then a round walk at up from the col at Bavella (parked next a statue, Notre-Dame des Neiges, to  into the mountains on a well marked path to a landmark feature in the granite.


We have learnt to get the solar panel in full sun and use the sun shade if we need it. The fridge works hard in these temperatures but the Decathlon sunshade is a great addition to the kit we carry. It is only supplied with two poles as it is a "tarp" but we bought two additional telescopic poles, maximum length of these is 2.3m. They are the ones at the Landy end, high enough to clear the back door. The two sectional steel poles with the shade are used at the other end and as they don't have the shock cord or springs to hold them together, they can be set to the most suitable length to hide the sun.

We also added extra guys, two at each pole. Thus the sheet can be tensioned fully and can be left out in wind. There's even extra guys clamped at the mid-point of the sides using a releasable "crocodile" jaw thing that grips the material. These cost peanuts on eBay, along with a good length of guy rope.



As we began our walk, in the early morning before the cars jam the pass, through binoculars we could see a little sport climbing (using pre-placed bolts for safety) on the lower slopes of this massif.


This was quite a nice rock feature, made all the more photogenic when the mist flowed through it from one side to the other.


The road continued past beautiful villages and the hairpins never end.



This drive was on a road marked as un-surfaced on our 2008 atlas but now it has been completed.
We drove towards Corte, staying just south at the best campsite yet! This is Peridundellu at Venaco.
Charges were personnes x2 €10, emplacement €3.5, plus taxes of 0.30 each = €14.10 per night




High in the mountains, this is an absolute gem. It is small, on the side of a valley, with easy access down to the best river swimming ever. Plus, Monsieur Le Patron is the best host, running the campsite and a small private restaurant for campers, where each night he provides a set three course menu at €14.50. 

We enjoyed staying here so much that we stayed for three nights and ate his meals each night too. The main courses were Sanglier (wild boar), Aubergine stuffed with meat, and Cannelloni. His house wine was €3 for 1/2 litre. The desert was always billed as Surprise. Of course one evening this was crème brulée. The surprise was which night it would be. For reference, the wild boar sits very heavily on the stomach.

Most campsites take an order for morning bread but only here does Le Patron personally deliver it to your pitch. Ours was marked accordingly as we are the only GBs here. In fact we haven't seen any Brits anywhere! Most other campers here are German and Austrian, in fact it must be featured in an Austrian camping publication as they outnumbered the rest. 


The river below the campsite is fed from some of the highest mountains on the island and has plenty of water flowing. The first swimming place makes a classic picture.




The second though, featured the deepest swimming holes, going far under the rocks, two or three metres deep in places. There was a significant drop too with a fair amount of rushing water providing some invigorating, muscle relaxing sessions.

It is a beautiful spot.














Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Potes and environs

Potes is a bustling town that’s clearly ‘in the mountains’ but isn’t quite a mountain town. Well that was what we thought until we went for a walk. More on that later. First we got to know the site ( Camping La Viorna ) and the neighbours. After the squeeze of the first night near the pool, we were upgraded to a pitch at the end of the lowest terrace which had a superb view of the eastern massive of the Picos. So although this was still a squeeze pitch, somehow we felt good about it. The ‘squeeze’ happened later in the day. ☺️ Happily our immediate neighbours were quiet Dutchland people who like to eat their tea early and retire in good time. They always enjoy taking to us Brits, rather than those Germans and soon I was engaged because I was asked a question. “Why do you have a UK flag on your number plate, rather than a Welsh Scottish or English flag?”. Tricky! I explained that England isn’t a country like Wales or Scotland. They have their own  parliaments and make rules for them...

First views of the Picos

 Santillana del Mar comes as a surprise to those of us that haven’t done the prep and read about this place. Fancy having planning controls going back to the 16C. when you have such amazing stone buildings. This town is a tourist town certainly but it’s thoroughly deserved. Beautiful sturdy Cotswold stone coloured buildings are everywhere. The stone quoins, lintols and supports are impressive but there’s plenty of substantial hefty cross sections of wood too. We wander the streets, looking at the wares aimed at us tourists but encounter cascades of water from the roof tiles. It’s raining and there are no gutters! The bar is welcoming and we cleverly order dos cañas de cerveza  having learnt this glass size from a bartender in Tenerife. We are rewarded with a plate of crisps too and settle on the bar stools, wondering whether to eat here. Unfortunately we discuss this for too long and the tables fill and we are left on the bar stools until we decide to wander again. Inside...

Lago del Valle

Continuing the walking theme, the next day we drove up another of the five valleys that connect with Pola de Somiedo, to get to a suitable start point. This was just below the last hamlet, Outeiro which is at the end of the tarmac. The intention was to walk from there, up to the corrie / cwm of Lago del Valle. The snag of the day was that as we set off to drive the narrow steep road up the gorge from the campsite, we immediately caught up with a full size concrete lorry, This was making its way to that last village and el driver was  not in a mood to pull over. So we had time to look at the gorge-that-becomes-a-high-valley. It’s hard to describe these landscapes. They are severe, incredibly scenic, remote and completely unspoilt. They are also so near the ferry ports of the coast that only £800 separates them from more campervan travellers from Great Britain (& Northern Island). We started the walk and soon saw the concrete which had already been dropped for the pad of a build...