Skip to main content

Inland to the high ground

Monte Cinto is only about 70km from Porto and we decided to go and have a look. At the same time we would be driving through the Gorges de Spelunca and then higher up, there was a chance of a dip in a mountain stream.

It's easy to let the senses get a little dulled by the scenery and to drive past viewpoints or not try to photograph spectacular roads. We pinched ourselves and hopefully avoided this pitfall and continued to appreciate this amazing island.







As we drove higher and ears began to pop, we started to see cows and calves at the side of the road. Later we would see pigs too, more and more of them. Some cows are tagged but others not and a bit of internet reading later on explained that this was all due to changes in EU subsidies. Apparently subsidies were being abused and so having previously encouraged them to keep these animals, the subsidies were later withdrawn. The result was that many animals were just released and free to roam.

It seems that between them, the pigs and cow do a fair share of damage. They can wander everywhere and the evidence is clear to see. Cows destroy the side of the road with rocks and stones raked onto the road as they clamber around. The pigs we saw were spending most of their time lying in sunny spot and suckling their young - of which there seemed to be plenty.



The cows were getting a bit frustrated with the wait at the pizza place.




After lunch at a shady spot, we searched for the side-of-the-road parking that marked the walk into the Gorges to a swimming spot. Navigating around the rocks was easy as the stream is hardly in spate and we had our rock slippers, making this easy, as they do pebble and rocky beaches too.

This bathing spot is at the site of one of 1,200 water powered moulins in the area that were used to mill flour.

It didn't take long for a couple of hardy Brits to get into water, much colder than the sea but only just cold enough to give a little shock and a slightly cold head for a minute. The 30+ deg sunshine always helps too. Swim, clamber out, sunbathe, swim, clamber out, sunbathe... It's a hard life.




Then we drove higher and higher with countless bends and curves with plenty of hairpins. There are many stone bridges as the road tucks around and across small valleys, over a col (bocca), past a ski area and to a great campsite under Monte Cinto, at the end of the road. The altitude is 1,000m but the mountain is 2,700m and so it's a fair lump above us. In fact it makes it's own weather and we did have a few rumbles of thunder and about ten spots of rain during the afternoon.






It isn't the weather for hard mountain climbing as even at this altitude the temperature is 30 degrees during the day and in the sun it's very hot. It's amazing really that there is little lapse rate. I think that this is something to do with humidity and it is such a contrast to the UK where it's easy to lose several degrees in just 400m.

The campsite is Camping U Monte Cintu and it's above the hamlet of Lozzi, near Albertacce. We had an enjoyable couple of nights where the temperature dropped markedly in the evening and overnight period and sleep was so refreshing. Campsite design here is perfect in that there are many informally marked areas that are scattered around with trees for shade and large stands of wild flowers separating them from each other.

The toilets are basic (think outside loo in the outhouse) and the only hot water is for the showers. The cold water isn't cold anyway and I had a "cold" shower. Afterwards I had a look at the boiler and found, usefully for those that would follow me, that it wasn't switched on. So I sorted that.






The village below the campsite is scenic but in a run-down sort of way, with plenty of Corsican flags in evidence. I don't know if this is an official emblem or if it is showing support for independence or maybe both? 😱






Although there are cows and sheep nearby, unlike Derbyshire sheep, these ones go to sleep at night and so with absolutely no wind, it was totally quiet during the night. It really is an unusual experience. There's no road noise, no overflying aircraft and best of all, quiet sheep!






Comments

Popular posts from this blog

On y va

Hooray. We are off. The ferry was booked a few weeks ago and the pressure was then on to get all sorts of jobs finished on the house and Landy. Major cosmetic work was to cover the grey front doors with paint that matches the rest of the vehicle. On the engine a coolant leak had developed behind the water pump and so the P gasket and adjacent core plug were renewed. Also a cheapy head unit from those Chinese people replaced the old Sony fm radio. Now we have opened up the wonders of Car Play and all that comes with it. Finally the 9th gen iPad with WiFi became a 9th gen iPad with WiFi and ‘cellular’. This means we can use OsmAnd Maps which need no data and get their gps position off the ‘cellular’ chip in the iPad. More on this useful map in subsequent posts. We headed towards Portsmouth for a mid morning ferry via our old neighbours in S-I-V. There we had a great few hours updating each about our families and then proceeded to save the NHS, the country and the world too. I mean why no...

Escaping the weather

We stayed in Potes for four nights and during that time the weather was very hot, with the last two days maxima in the mid 30s. Bizarrely, last Friday night was one of the hottest, as at bedtime it was 27C and even in the middle of the night it was 25C. The forecast though, was ominous for the Picos (and worse for the UK) and so we made the best of the day by zooming up the valley to Fuente De. Here with perfect planning, we had booked the cable car for 10:30 and were whisked up in one cable catenary swoop, from 1,100m to 1,800m. It was sunny with wide views and we walked up a barren valley until we reached a steep scree-crossing path, where we turned around. Any further and it would have needed full kit and sleeping bags, as we were heading for a refugio . We got our fill of that high mountain and were back down in time to escape the mountains before the weather broke. The committee had decided that a city break to Leon was next and we had an overnight opportunity somewhere along ...

Potes and environs

Potes is a bustling town that’s clearly ‘in the mountains’ but isn’t quite a mountain town. Well that was what we thought until we went for a walk. More on that later. First we got to know the site ( Camping La Viorna ) and the neighbours. After the squeeze of the first night near the pool, we were upgraded to a pitch at the end of the lowest terrace which had a superb view of the eastern massive of the Picos. So although this was still a squeeze pitch, somehow we felt good about it. The ‘squeeze’ happened later in the day. ☺️ Happily our immediate neighbours were quiet Dutchland people who like to eat their tea early and retire in good time. They always enjoy taking to us Brits, rather than those Germans and soon I was engaged because I was asked a question. “Why do you have a UK flag on your number plate, rather than a Welsh Scottish or English flag?”. Tricky! I explained that England isn’t a country like Wales or Scotland. They have their own  parliaments and make rules for them...