At least the rest of the time in the lake area between Como and Garda was a sunny success and we really enjoyed the warmth, scenery, value for money and the lake waters.
It was time for another plan; the route to Rotterdam and the best use of the time. The Tyrol had been a good couple of days and we liked the site at Prutz. So we hatched a plan to go there for at least two full days of high level walking and then make a reasonably speedy dash for the ferry. The alpine weather forecast for the last week of September seems to be good so why not?
We head north, towards Trento and pick a route that appears to wiggle through the mountains of Lombardy and Trento. We actually pass many factories and it’s surprising but true, it hasn’t all gone to China. We even pass a Beretta plant (Fabbrica d'Armi Pietro Beretta).
There are so many tunnels. It seems continuous. One follows another, some short and others over 1km.
We stop for coffee at a sign that needs a quick decision to turn off. It’s a surprising place - clearly an isolated house which is run as a restaurant. We have two cappuccinos and a piece of cake €7.50. How does she do that?
The mountains get bigger and the land becomes covered in vineyards and orchards. In fact the orchards are everywhere. There are millions of apple trees laden with fruit and the harvest is about to start.
Tractors are hauling trailers with apple boxes which are placed in the orchards. Some people are about to get busy. It’s a huge setup, we’ve never seen anything like it, it’s so big.
The landscape gets even more alpine and we are now in Süd Tirol. This is NOT Italy, say the locals on flags and posters. It is though and has been since WW1.
We see that signs are now in ‘German’. The Italy of this morning is far away culturally. The steep slopes are forested but have cleared land with the ubiquitous close cropped grass and drop-dead gorgeous chalet houses clinging to the slopes. There’s always a church with tall, square bell tower. I wonder if the chimes are the same as at Anfo. The clock there struck the number of the hour on the hour but also at the half hour. Then a second bell struck a solitary note to indicate the half.
A sign at the side of the road signals a waterfall and unusually I haven’t got an Italian driver on my rear bumper. So I can make a turn across the road.
These drivers are the most impatient. We all know this but it doesn’t help. The minute someone is held at lights or because an elderly person is being dropped-off, a horn sounds. In the local roads they sound a horn at every bend but don’t change their speed for ‘just in case’. Ho hum.
The waterfall is a 20 minute walk from a village centre parking spot where we have our lunch.
It’s a worthwhile walk, even at the end of summer.
We pass two campsites that want to charge over €60. We don’t pay that for a 12 hour stay. Instead we pick a spot from Park4night and turn off the main road and go up and up towards the forest. There’s a turning and a gravel area which is apparently ok in which to stay. So we do. No one else does and we hear a solitary car between dusk and dawn.
It’s amazing. The moon is almost full. The village and road below are just a hum. We sleep well but it’s cold outside and in the morning the heater is welcome.
I stand at a fence at about 07:45, watching the sunlight on the peaks opposite, when a deer sees me and barks so loud I’m startled but grab my phone and manage a video and a still.
It’s a very shrill, loud call and the deer doesn’t like me there but has turned and moved away before looking back and barking again.
Then it’s gone.
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