Skip to main content

Calvi and the approach to Porto

With the warm-up in full swing, we knew that shade and water (to drink and in which to be immersed), were now necessities. We skirted the Desert des Agriates to the north of us as the temperature and humidity were a good reason not to go to the famous beach Plage de Saleccia. This would have required a sixty minute off road excursion on a track that we couldn't get up-to-date details about, to reach the campsite at the beach end.


Instead we continued on tarmac, reaching the coast and enjoying the beautiful scenery and smells until we arrived at the chic town and marina of Calvi.

There one can watch the yachting and boating world go by. The campsite we chose, Camping Les Castors, is just a few minutes walk from the huge beach, which itself is next to the marina and the massive Citadel is prominent too.

We found some shade for both us and the Landy, in fact a little too much shade, as the battery that supplies the fridge began to complain, dropping to 11.6V a few times. This was due to reduced input from the "shaded for too much of the day" 100W solar panel, whilst the fridge was working flat out 24/7 in order to keep the interior at around 4 deg C. It does this very well.

This is an idea of the temperatures we are experiencing, with the left side temperature on the display showing the interior of the vehicle and the right showing exterior shade temperature. The latter is a little affected by radiation from the chassis and so when the Landy isn't moving it can read a little high - but it isn't far off. So we are getting used to temperatures in mid thirties and wow is that hot. With a strong sun, the temperature rises very quickly so that it is over thirty degrees from mid-morning right through until the evening. There's no respite and the coolest places to be are supermarkets but otherwise, with no aircon, it is shade and a breeze, in that order or total immersion in water.












Calvi is set in front of a spectacular range of mountains, still showing some snow on these north facing flanks. The peaks are dramatic, looking like the Dolomites, formed by vertical rock faces like huge incisors. The photo doesn't do them justice.

Lord Nelson lost his eye here in 1794 and left never wanting to see the place again.


Visiting the Citadel required an early start due to the heat but we managed to walk there, back and around before the heat of the day would drive us to the campsite pool.


We had a great view down to the dock where Titania, a 73m custom motor yacht was coming into port. There was a large crew on deck ready to berth her and we were excited to see if anyone we recognised was on board, as it is a British ship flying the Red Ensign.


As we watched and waited, a quick Google gave us more facts and surprisingly, as it is a charter vessel, the indicative cost to hire for a week. Rather fortunately given the weather, it is still low season, so costs are €525,000 for the week plus expenses of about €71,000. Rather unsurprisingly one-one we know did appear on the gangplank.

Returning to the campsite, we toughed it out at the pool. This is beautifully situated and has very comfortable sun loungers. (I'm not responsible for the feet in the photo). Whilst not being a "swimmer's" pool", one can still have great fun.






Driving along the coast from Calvi to Porto was spectacular. For the main part, the road really was clinging to precipitous cliffs and the sea was often several hundred metres below.








A short detour to a village at the seafront was rewarded with a really cool café and another great view.
Plus another guest came past wearing a Land Rover T-shirt and soon we were back on teh road comparing notes, him with a nice TD5 110 fitted out for sleeping. These discussions are doing wonders for my French language ability too.





Finally the road swings east and as you drive around the corner, the whole of the Golfe de Porto opens-up. This view is looking back north across the gulf to the road where we drove from left to right as we approached Porto. In the grand scheme of things, we are now in a relatively remote part of the island and it is beautiful.






Comments

Popular posts from this blog

On y va

Hooray. We are off. The ferry was booked a few weeks ago and the pressure was then on to get all sorts of jobs finished on the house and Landy. Major cosmetic work was to cover the grey front doors with paint that matches the rest of the vehicle. On the engine a coolant leak had developed behind the water pump and so the P gasket and adjacent core plug were renewed. Also a cheapy head unit from those Chinese people replaced the old Sony fm radio. Now we have opened up the wonders of Car Play and all that comes with it. Finally the 9th gen iPad with WiFi became a 9th gen iPad with WiFi and ‘cellular’. This means we can use OsmAnd Maps which need no data and get their gps position off the ‘cellular’ chip in the iPad. More on this useful map in subsequent posts. We headed towards Portsmouth for a mid morning ferry via our old neighbours in S-I-V. There we had a great few hours updating each about our families and then proceeded to save the NHS, the country and the world too. I mean why no...

Burgundy

We thought that after the descent from Col du Galibier, we would be done with cols. They are brilliant to drive but hard work. The narrower the road the harder it is, especially at hairpins. These are almost always steep and so the vehicle speed and engine revs need to be correct before the turn. If it’s a right hand bend then the driving line is obviously on the right part of the corner which is always the steepest. It’s all about teamwork, especially as those bikers love the roads and like to be close to the middle. A Land Rover 110 needs a wide turning circle and so we have to look out sideways and either up above or down below to see what’s coming. After Galibier the road finally descends to the ski area of Valloire and on to Col du Telègraphe, which from the south isn’t much but those ascending from the north will feel the height gain. Then down to the Maurienne valley and we think we are done with hills. However there’s one last surprise as we turn right off the motorway route to...

Chartreuse

The ‘hills’ to the east, above the two lakes, separate this area from the huge Lac du Bourget, with Aix-les-Bains on the east side and Chambery to the south. The names seem all to be associated with cats and we ascended Col du Chat, rather than use the Tunnel du Chat and then down to the lake and to a supermarket. Today is Ascension day and the people of the area are either riding bikes, sitting in cars not moving very quickly or at the IntermarchĂ©. They are here, as are we, because it’s the only place open! We need to stock up and so we fill the trolley and stand in the queue. Most of the checkout personnel must also be ‘ pont-ing ’ to le weekend as there are few are here. We then retrace our steps and again drive up Chatland and this time up the D42 to Mont du Chat. The road is a cycling magnet, as it forms long switchbacks between hairpins and we ascend to 1,496m and then beautifully, we arrive at a parking spot just as it’s being  vacated and slide in. There are a lot of cars ...