We headed west and back to the Atlantic coast of Galicia and it is hard to express just how magnificent this part of the coast is. There are countless inlets with white sandy beaches and little villages next to them. The whole coastline is a series of rias, so the sea reaches into far corners of the valleys and with the roads winding in and out, the driving distances mount up.
We stopped to buy cherries from Pepé. He sells only the best and even puts the tray in a rather cool carrier bag from ‘Cheap & Chic’. Prices must be tumbling now that they are in full season and we bought a 2Kg tray for €5. At least we think it was 2Kg but Pepé doesn’t bother with all that EU weights and measures nonsense and it’s a good deal anyway, as we can hardly manage to eat them all.
As we drive, we are nearing the most westerly points of Spain and again Dawn pulled a great campsite from the book. It’s just west of Louro, itself west of Muros, where we drove out to a very exposed headland. Here Wolfgang, originally from West Berlin thirty years ago ("I vorked for ze British Army”), has built a great site with views out west stretching in an arc from north to south, perfectly situated for June sunsets to the north west. From here we can see three lighthouses at night - it’s a dramatic coast.
The weather was still tempestuous and this photo reminds me of a scary time we once had in St Davids, when with a sky like this, we were hit by a small tornado that took out a swathe of tents and awnings in a line next to ours. “Don’t worry, it’s only a thunderstorm” were the words I uttered then, just before it struck.
The sea was battering the rocks, especially to the northern side of the headland.
It was a sheltered pitch and we had a good view over the wall!
With various bits of flotsam (or is it jetsam?) we stamped our mark on it and I hope that Wolfgang didn’t mind that we left them there.
During a day trip we found another waterfall right next to a hydro electric power station which allowed access to view the turbine hall. The other tourists can’t have been interested as we were only the second entry in the log book that day.
It’s possible to drive up to the top of the hill, behind the plant and we did - although there was only a sign showing the gradient at the top of the road and not the bottom. If there had been one I’d probably still have driven up but 30% is very steep and you must not stop!
We went to Cabo Fisterra, which is the unofficial most westerly point of Spain. Most people treat it as “The End of The World”, as it’s easier to get to than the proper point just up the coast and it 'feels' like it's the end as it is a big peninsular. Just because it stick out south doesn't matter!
This is also a final - final destination on the Camino for those hardy souls who walk the optional extension from SdC. Here they have a tradition of burning their footwear and indeed the cliff has many fire pits containing charred trainers, with other pairs just left on the ground.
Here’s a view of one of “our” beaches once the weather improved and it’s typical of those on this coastline - white sand and completely unspoilt.
This coast is truly amazing and there’s such an easy mix of local people and the relatively few tourists. It’s true that there are signs there will Spanish holiday crowds because there are preparations on going for the “season”. It can’t be very long though, as its midsummer’s day already and Wolfgang’s site closes in mid September!
We stopped to buy cherries from Pepé. He sells only the best and even puts the tray in a rather cool carrier bag from ‘Cheap & Chic’. Prices must be tumbling now that they are in full season and we bought a 2Kg tray for €5. At least we think it was 2Kg but Pepé doesn’t bother with all that EU weights and measures nonsense and it’s a good deal anyway, as we can hardly manage to eat them all.
As we drive, we are nearing the most westerly points of Spain and again Dawn pulled a great campsite from the book. It’s just west of Louro, itself west of Muros, where we drove out to a very exposed headland. Here Wolfgang, originally from West Berlin thirty years ago ("I vorked for ze British Army”), has built a great site with views out west stretching in an arc from north to south, perfectly situated for June sunsets to the north west. From here we can see three lighthouses at night - it’s a dramatic coast.
The weather was still tempestuous and this photo reminds me of a scary time we once had in St Davids, when with a sky like this, we were hit by a small tornado that took out a swathe of tents and awnings in a line next to ours. “Don’t worry, it’s only a thunderstorm” were the words I uttered then, just before it struck.
The sea was battering the rocks, especially to the northern side of the headland.
It was a sheltered pitch and we had a good view over the wall!
With various bits of flotsam (or is it jetsam?) we stamped our mark on it and I hope that Wolfgang didn’t mind that we left them there.
During a day trip we found another waterfall right next to a hydro electric power station which allowed access to view the turbine hall. The other tourists can’t have been interested as we were only the second entry in the log book that day.
It’s possible to drive up to the top of the hill, behind the plant and we did - although there was only a sign showing the gradient at the top of the road and not the bottom. If there had been one I’d probably still have driven up but 30% is very steep and you must not stop!
We went to Cabo Fisterra, which is the unofficial most westerly point of Spain. Most people treat it as “The End of The World”, as it’s easier to get to than the proper point just up the coast and it 'feels' like it's the end as it is a big peninsular. Just because it stick out south doesn't matter!
This is also a final - final destination on the Camino for those hardy souls who walk the optional extension from SdC. Here they have a tradition of burning their footwear and indeed the cliff has many fire pits containing charred trainers, with other pairs just left on the ground.
Here’s a view of one of “our” beaches once the weather improved and it’s typical of those on this coastline - white sand and completely unspoilt.
This coast is truly amazing and there’s such an easy mix of local people and the relatively few tourists. It’s true that there are signs there will Spanish holiday crowds because there are preparations on going for the “season”. It can’t be very long though, as its midsummer’s day already and Wolfgang’s site closes in mid September!
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